Sunday 23 August 2015

Chruchill by rail: part 6 - an afternoon at the beach


 WMRC blog editor Paul Ullrich relaxes by the Hudson Bay shoreline. No, he didn't go in for a dip.


By Paul Ullrich

What better way to celebrate your arrival in Churchill than to spend some time at the beach?

Come again?

Yes, Churchill has a beach, right on the shores of Hudson Bay, just a short walk from town. Mind you, it's not swarming with swimmers at any time of the year, although a few stalwart types do participate in an annual swim every Canada Day. But it serves as yet another reminder that Manitoba is indeed a maritime province, with a deep sea saltwater port.

But we weren't there to sunbathe. It was a little too cold for that. We were there to visit the Cape Merry National Historical Site, which is on the opposite side of the Churchill river estuary from Fort Prince of Wales.

It was also the first time that most of us ever took a tour with an armed guide! Yes, he was packing heat - a 45 caliber rifle. Clint Eastwood's "Dirty Harry" only had a 44 Magnum. But he didn't have to be able to stop a charging polar bear dead in his tracks. Fortunately, our guide didn't have to do that.

There were plenty of signs warning us that we were in polar bear country. But despite the warnings, we still wandered around the site. Perhaps the signs were too subtle. Maybe they should've read, "What, are you stupid or something? Get out of here! There are polar bears!"

Among the site we visited by the beach were the massive inukshuck and the Enterprise boat, a landlocked ship by the shoreline. We also visited the cannon battery at the Cape Merry National Historic Site, which was being restored by a group of university students. The battery was built to guard the river mouth and to prevent enemy occupation of Fort Prince of Wales by providing crossfire.

There are two cannon batteries at Cape Merry. The first one was located directly across from the eastern wall of Fort Prince of Wales. Then they realized that the cannon could also be seized by the enemy and used to fire on the fort! The powder magazine was built right in the middle of the battery, which meant that any stray sparks from the cannon could ignite the black powder.  In 1747 the battery was relocated to a second site.

This was the second place we visited that day. It was already the middle of the afternoon, but we were far from finished with the day's tours! This stop was only part of a whirlwind tour of Churchill that day, which included a visit to the Parks Canada Visitor Reception Centre, the Port of Churchill, Fort Prince of Wales and whale watching in the Churchill river estuary!

We had an exciting preview of the evenings upcoming whale watching tour. We were watching what we thought were whitecaps in the estuary, when our guide pointed out that what we thought were whitecaps were scores of breeching beluga whales!

 Our guide, packing serious heat. Yes, the rifle is fully loaded!
 
Our group watches a group of university students restore the cannon battery at Cape Merry National Historic Site.

The inukshuck at the beach on Hudson Bay.

 These signs were everywhere, and they were a constant reminder that we were no longer in Southern Manitoba.


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Friday 21 August 2015

Assiniboine Valley Railway to hold their second open house in August this weekend

Are you ready for even some more fun on riding the rails? The AVR is holding another open house this weekend! On Saturday, August 22, you can take a ride from 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM. On Sunday, the hours are from 1:00 PM to 5:00 PM. Rides are just two bucks, and you can get a 12 ride pass for only $20! Join in on the fun this weekend at 3001 Roblin Boulevard, just west of Assiniboine park! For more information click here.
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"Friendly Fridays... The D&H Sonnyvale Branch."

Kip Grant has both the voice and the cool sounding name to be an on-air radio personality. Good thing too, because he was for many years. But you may know him from his 'other' job... designing, building and operating the prototypically-inspired Sonnyvale Branch of the Delaware & Hudson. His 13' x 19' layout, named after his dad, is a re-creation of his childhood memories rail-fanning the D&H's upstate New York branch between Fort Edward and Lake George, circa 1962.

I was mesmerized the first time I saw it in the 2011 issue of Great Model Railroads. His room size and configuration was similar to that with which I'd be working and I was amazed at what Kip could accomplish in that space. I also took note of the museum-like presentation he afforded his dynamic work of art. Every inch of the finely finished environment was flawless in showcasing the layout. 

Few modelers are fortunate to be featured in one national magazine, let alone two. But to grace the cover on each occasion is absolutely top drawer. No doubt Kip counts these as two of his proudest moments in the hobby, aside from his inclusion on this blog, of course.
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The town of Sonnyvale is based on Glens Falls, NY. It is well framed at the end of the walk-in layout within coved walls and a thoughtful treatment with both valence and fascia. The valence utilizes pipe insulation as a protective edging which also gives it a nicely finished touch. The fascia matches the valence, painted a midnight blue... unusual, but it works!
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Black skirting completes the layout's presentation while perfectly aligned 35mm film canisters are used to recess toggle switches that control all turnouts for convenience and safety. Junction Yard is seen here on the right, while the end of the peninsula is on the left.
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Kip groups complimentary structures together to depict sizable industries requiring varied loads, enhancing operations. Here the Holly Hill Creamery serves as a backdrop to a local heading out of Junction Yard. But note the real backdrop and the very low horizon line and muted hills beyond the scenic terrain... not to mention the telephone lines. Sweet!
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If you are familiar with Railway Design Associates' 'Easton Mill' kit you'll recognize that Kip altered the side by skillfully replacing one overhead door with two blocked windows. He added a stone foundation and applied such Tichy details as masonry anchors and rafter tails... and that looks like a chimney from Monster Modelworks, maybe?
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The volunteer fireman and community fire marshal makes certain that his structures comply to the UCC with red alarm boxes and standpipe connections! Like the creamery, Kip has grouped a couple of compatible structures to serve as one large industry unifying them through a common color scheme and such identical details as railings and signage.
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An old D&H paint scheme approaches, passing the Lefebvre Lumber Supply which is an old Art Curren project combining a couple of Atlas 'Hillside Lumber' kits with an AHM 'American Farmhouse.' Kip adds oodles of details to the compilation, and with subtle weathering and custom signage, it's an A-1 model. Specific improvements include the addition of rafter tails and the distressing of the shingle roof edge of the front building.
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The three principal areas where most switching operations occur are nicely separated with scenic treatment depicting the countryside of upstate New York, like this farm which is a representation of Kip's in-law's. Every scene is detailed and tells a story through its many citizens and vintage vehicles. Tricky early fall foliage has been skillfully depicted without looking too severe as can happen. The  unique cross buck design is indeed prototypical.
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Another enhanced standard styrene kit is the 'Sunrise Feed Mill' from Walthers with custom signage and various applied details. Here, Kip changed the foundation of the central part of the building to suggest the flanking sections were added at a later date. Likewise, the roof of the lowest section has been changed from the kit's rolled tarpaper to a ribbed metal, again suggesting that the business has grown over time. Note the rail-fanning dad and son in the lower right hand corner awaiting some real railroad action.
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Here's where all of the magic happens! Kip's work area is located just outside of the layout room adjacent to the crew lounge and is ideally equipped with a fully functioning sink, spray booth and a work surface, somewhere or another. Looks like there's even one of those optivisors hanging above, no doubt just to be ready if ever needed in the future.
The presentation of the Sonnyvale Branch may be museum-like, but the layout serves as a living, breathing, operating testament to the prototype. A regular crew of buddies, including several who are retired from the D&H, have made certain that the railroad works. The branch utilizes a yard just off of a hint of the mainline to avoid the need for (gasp!) staging. Kip explains:

"Each session starts as a new day. The Junction Yard crew blocks outbound cars which were brought to the yard in the previous session and places them on tracks designated by the yard clerk. Following the session, I play the role of the main line freights and remove the outbounds. Then after selecting appropriate inbound cars in accordance with my software, I place said cars in the yard as if they were set off by other imaginary mainline freights. And the cycle continues."

And the fun continues for Kip and his crew, and for anyone who visits the Sonnyvale Branch. I was thrilled to spend some time there and absolutely look forward to a return someday. I'm just not sure when the best time would be...
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  BONUS:  RHETORICAL  QUESTION  OF  THE  DAY... 
 
Hey Jim, when's the ideal time of year to visit the Lake George region in upstate New York to see Kip's layout ?

A) Spring, when pollen is measured in inches, just like snow.
B) Summer, when SUVs from NYC teach locals some new road rules.
C) Fall, when busloads of 'leafers' patiently search for the perfect tree.
D) Winter, when snow is measured in feet, not in inches like pollen.?
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Thursday 20 August 2015

Churchill by rail: Part five: A visit to the Port of Churchill

By Paul Ullrich

A very special tour, exclusive to the Rail Travel Tours group, was a visit to the Port of Churchill. This was a special treat for railfans. It's the northern terminus for the Hudson Bay Railway and the northernmost point of any Manitoba rail line. It's Canada's only arctic seaport, and it's one of the largest grain elevators in the province.

The only reason for Churchill's existence was the port. The rail line was completed to Churchill in 1929, after it was decided that a rail line to Port Nelson wasn't feasible because of the heavy silt buildup from the Nelson River.

Farmers using the port had the advantage of not paying charges laid by the Saint Lawrence Seaway, and the route from Churchill to Europe is much shorter than any other North American port.  But the track was built on muskeg and permafrost, which limited the size of the rail cars, the length of the trains, and the speed which the trains could travel.  Standard three bay hoppers carrying a full load of grain were just too heavy.  The short shipping season also impaired grain traffic. 


For many years, the port was owned and operated by the Province of Manitoba. It was turned over to the federal government, who operated it for about a decade, until it was sold to OmniTRAX - for ten dollars!

The port was almost entirely reliant on grain shipments from the Canadian Wheat Board, but grain traffic has decreased considerably at the port when the CWB's monopoly was ended.

OmniTRAX purchased trackage north of The Pas from CN Rail to form the Hudson Bay Railway in 1997. Since then, they have been able to run heavier rail cars and longer trains, bringing increased business to the Port from various mines and pulp mills.

Much thanks to Rail travel Tours, who provided us with this rare opportunity to visit this historic Manitoba railway site!
 Our group tours the massive interior of the grain loading facility of the Port of Churchill.

 These grates are placed between the rails to empty the hoppers. The grain is then transported by conveyors to the many silos in the port.
 A representative from the Port of Churchill explains the process of grading grain to members of our tour group.
The grain storage process is described by a Port of Churchill employee. See all of those circles drawn behind him on the slate? Each one of those circles is a grain bin at the port!
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Tuesday 18 August 2015

Churchill by rail - Part four: The interpretive centre in the train station



 One of the displays at the Parks Canada Visitor Reception Centre in Churchill is a recreation of a polar bear breeding quarters.

By Paul Ullrich

We got into some serious sightseeing on our first day in Churchill. Our first stop was the Via Rail station, and where else would a railfan want to be? But we weren't there for the trains. The station is also home of the Parks Canada Visitor Reception Centre.

The Via Rail station is quite large, but Via now occupies only a small part of the station. Parks Canada bought the building some time ago and now uses it to house their administration centre and their visitor reception centre.

And what a centre it is! It's a mini-museum in itself, with well crafted displays of Churchill's rich history and wildlife. There were plenty of interpreters from Parks Canada around who were very eager and willing to talk about the displays and their historical and cultural significance.

There was also an auditorium where they screened videos about Wapusk National Park, an enormous park that extends from Cape Churchill (Just west of the town of Churchill) all the way south to Port Nelson. The park is the main breeding ground for polar bears, and his also home to wolves, caribou, snow geese and other wildlife.

The also gave us something to eat! The staff had prepared for our group local delicacies such as bannock and homemade jams and tea, which was made from the edible plants and berries that grow in the area. It was an authentic fur trapper's snack, and there was plenty to go around!

Much so our surprise, we saw part of our train in the station. The dome car and one of the sleepers we sitting on a side track. Somehow the train managed to reach Churchill, but had left those two cars. The next run was going only to The Pas, and the wye at The Pas where the train was turned around for its return trip to Churchill was too short to hold the extra sleeper and the dome car.

 Our tour group feasted on a variety of home made and home grown foods from the area.

Attention all modellers! Check out this beautiful model of Fort Prince of Wales that was in the Parks Canada Visitor reception area! 

Members of our group listen to the head interpreter demonstrating an interactive display.
Hey, what's part of our train doing there? These two cars were left behind in Churchill, as the wouldn't have to been able to fit in the wye at The Pas, where the train was turned around for its return trip to Churchill.



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Monday 17 August 2015

"Three years ago the unthinkable happened... "

It was shortly before midnight, Monday, August 20, 2012. Two 19 year old girls sat on the railroad bridge, feet dangling over Main Street, their backs to the railroad tracks several feet away. They tweeted, "Looking down on old EC." The high school friends would soon be returning to their respective colleges and they were doing what kids in Ellicott City have allegedly done for years, hanging out on the historic trestle on a warm summer night. Then the unthinkable happened.

A fully loaded eastbound coal train rounded the bend and descended into town. The first ten cars rumbled past the girls before something went tragically wrong. A string of hoppers derailed, tipping over and burying the pair instantly.

The CSX eastbound train had originated in Grafton, WV and was comprised of 80 fully loaded hoppers pulled by two locomotives. Total weight was estimated at 9,000 tons.
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The first 21 cars of the train derailed in the heart of downtown at the historic bridge over Main Street. The girls were in a restricted area accessible by climbing a low fence.
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All reports confirm that the train was traveling at the 25 MPH speed limit entering town.
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The cost in property damage and clean-up was estimated at $1.9 million, but the emotional loss for the close-knit community can never be determined.  (Photo by John Teichmoeller)
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It was initially speculated that a retaining wall had slowly been giving way allowing the track above to go out of gauge, but a year-long investigation by the NTSB found that a rail fractured several hundred feet from the trestle caused by the "gradual deterioration of the rail-head surface" ... otherwise known as metal fatigue.             (Photo by John Teichmoeller)
 

As a regular visitor to this town my entire life, the tragedy felt weirdly personal, even from 200 miles away. I have stood in that general area many times with my grandfather and just a year earlier with my then-17 year old daughter as part of a college tour to Washington DC. How do those most affected by this, cope with their loss and grasp the random nature of such a bizarrely fateful event?

As modelers, it points to a strange reality that when we depict a prototype and a period, we may be dabbling in a story whose innocence will be stolen forever at a later date. It's going to be challenging to depict the Ellicott City bridge at Main Street circa 1960. I will know something about its future that I would prefer not to know. It sure wasn't something I signed up for modeling the Old Main Line.
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   BONUS:  RHETORICAL  QUESTION  OF  THE  DAY... 
 
Have you hugged your child today... and reminded them of the inherent dangers around railroad tracks??
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Sunday 16 August 2015

Churchill by rail: Part Three: STILL stranded in Thompson!


We passed the time taking photos the wolf mural in Thompson, Manitoba, while waiting for our flight.

By Paul Ullrich

After a pleasant sleep in a non-moving sleeper car, we woke up the next morning and found out our proposed schedule for the day.

We were told that we were to board a bus at 1:30 PM, which would take us to the airport. If we wanted to go into Thompson, we were asked to be back at no later then 12:00 noon for lunch, so we'd have enough time eat and to prepare for boarding the bus with all of our belongings.

To make our wait more pleasurable, Via ordered dozens of donuts, pastries and muffins from Tim Horton's, along with gallons of coffee, and had them placed in the station for all the passengers.

When we first arrived in Thompson, a member of our group had checked the fuel gauge on the head end unit. He checked it this morning, and found that the engine had gone through 700 litres of fuel, just to keep the train's services going!

A group of us took advantage of the time and visited the Heritage North Museum and Information Centre. This is a wonderful little museum housed inside a log cabin, and it's just packed with many fascinating displays about Thompson's history and wildlife. We also posed in front of the Wolf Mural, which is a Robert Bateman design painted by Winnipeg's prominent mural painter, Charles Johnson. It's painted on the side of the Highland Tower, a 10 story apartment block.

We got back in time for lunch in the diner car. There were usually five selections for lunch, but this time we only had two. Robert, our tour guide, announced that the plane that was chartered couldn't fit all of our group. He asked for eight volunteers who wouldn't mind flying on a later plane, then passed a sign-up sheet around.

After lunch, we packed up our belongings. We could see the Greyhound Bus waiting for us behind the station. At 1:25 we all left our quarters and waited in line to disembark from the train. Ten minutes later, we were told to go back to our seats.

More muffins were brought from Tim's as a series of frantic phone calls to Via's head office in Montreal, Hudson Bay Railway, Rail Travel Tours, Calm Air, and Perimeter Airlines. We were allowed to leave the train, but not the station.

Amid all of this confusion, we met an 85 year old woman with a delightfully lilting Scottish accent who took the new of our delay with an enviable calm. She had lived in Churchill for many years, and had taken this train often enough to expect any sort of misfortune to befall her.

"You don't know how lucky you are, dear." She said. "This delay happened in a city.  It could've occurred in the bush, and then what would would've become of us?"

We felt a bit better after hearing that.

Finally, at 5:00 PM, we were told to get our luggage from the baggage car and board the bus. Being in a tour group had its advantages, for we were the first to leave. The passengers who were not in our tour group stayed overnight in a Thompson hotel, and were flown into Churchill the following day.

One plane was waiting for us at the airport. It was a 16 seater from Perimeter airlines. We were told that another plane would be there in just a few minutes to take the rest of us to Churchill. 16 people from our group boarded the plane. It was so cramped that you couldn't stand up straight. Little packets were handed out. They looked like gummy bears. They were actually earplugs.

The plane took off at 5:50 PM. As soon as it left, the airport manager announced that the next plane would be here at 7:30 PM.

So much for "the next plane will be here in a few minutes".

Thompson airport is like no other airport in the south of the country. The secure area's door was left open so passengers could get coffee and snacks. There was a sign in the washroom cautioning us not to drink the water, as it wasn't potable. The luggage scanner was an old woman with a cane who closed up shop promptly at 6:00 PM. We had no luggage inspection whatsoever. All they did was weigh and tag our luggage.

There was a Transport Canada sign by the baggage counter listing the things you couldn't bring on a plane. One of them was an aerosol can. I had a can of shave cream in my toiletry bag in my carry on. When I asked the clerk what I should do with it, she shrugged and giggled and said, "I don't know!"

The one thing the took seriously was take-out food brought into the planes. Boxes of donuts were subject to inspection by airport officials because they had several incidents where marijuana was smuggled inside of them.

The airport manager ordered a pizza for supper. Several members of our group did the same. He offered to pick it up so we wouldn't have to pay the delivery fee. That's Thompson airport for you.

The Calm Air plane arrived on time. It was a spacious 44 seater, and you could stand up in it! They even had snacks! We arrive in Churchill exactly at 9:00 PM, exactly 12 hours later than we were supposed to arrive.

We were greeted at the Airport by Paul, our guide for the next 48 hours. He looked like a cross between Grizzly Adams and Dumbledore. The school bus that he drove to take us us to our hotel had a gun rack with a very large an menacing looking rifle. We weren't in the south anymore.

Dinner, and the rest of our party, were waiting for us at the Seaport Hotel. We celebrated our arrival by having a delicious meal of fresh Arctic Char.

We made it!

 One of the displays at the Heritage North Museum and Information Centre in Thompson.

 Taking our checked baggage from the train to the bus. We're finally leaving Thompson!
 Yes, they were very serious about those donuts!

          That's the 16 seater from Perimeter Airlines that took some of our group to Churchill.
  That's the rifle mounted on a gun rack in the school bus that took us to our hotel. 
            


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